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Mark Nash: Real Estate Author, Columnist & Writer

Bricks & sticks: Staircases.
By Mark Nash
 
Staircases offer style as well as functional appeal to a home. Many home owners and buyers don't always understand staircase options available. Knowing the parts of a staircase, configurations and basic code requirements can help you find the best staircase for your remodeling or new-construction project.
 
Parts of a staircase. Balusters are the vertical posts that support the handrail. Balustrade include the balusters, handrail and newel posts. The landing is a break in a set of stairs. Newel posts are a vertical support post at the end of a handrail. The riser is the vertical section of a step from one tread to the next and the rounded front edge of the riser that protrudes beyond the stair is the nosing. A tread is the horizontal part of a step and the surface you walk on. The height of the whole staircase is called the total rise. The stringer is the structural foundation that risers and treads are nailed to.
 
Configurations of staircases. The most common and economical configuration is the straight-run. U and L shaped work for in difficult design situations and take up more square footage because they require a landing. In extremely tight spaces a l shaped winder is used, the winder replaces the landing with triangular steps. The spiral is the last resort for a staircase in tight floor plans, home buyers are not fond of this style.
 
Residential building code requirements for staircases. Treads are required to be a minimum of ten inches deep, risers must be a maximum of seven and three-quarters tall. The minimum width of a staircase is thirty-six inches and if a landing is used it must be a minimum of three feet by three feet. The three foot square rule also applies to the landing space at the top and bottom of any staircase.

Bricks & Sticks: Ceiling Options
By Mark Nash
 
Real estate ad, builders brochures often contain ceiling descriptions other than the standard eight-foot flat types that are found in many homes today. Understanding the options you have, especially when building a new home can create a unique space for your family to enjoy.
 
Tray: A stepped ceiling, where as the design moves further away from the sidewall, the ceiling continues to rise to a higher flat surface. Common in master bedrooms, living and dining rooms. Tray ceilings add an architectural look. Tray's are typically recessed and require additional framing to support the structure.
 
Vaulted: Common styles include; angled, barrel and groin. An angled vault is the most typical, one or both sides of a ceiling slope upward towards the peak.Angled vaulted ceilings are popular in most living spaces including sunrooms and master bedrooms. A barrel is distinguished by it's circular shape and add drama to long hallways. and a groin vault is the intersection of two barrel vaults at a right angle. Groin vaults are common in classical Roman architecture, but are seen today in foyers and breakfast rooms.
 
Exposed Beam: A beam that is structural or non-structural that is not covered with drywall, tin or wood. Styles include; hand-hewn, faux-wood and recycled finished beams that create an old-world feeling. Typically found in living, family, dining and breakfast rooms.
 
Domed: A round spherical-shaped ceiling that is supported only by it's base. Recessed coves can accommodate uplighting. Found in classical buildings such as state capitals and in colonial-style homes. Domed ceilings can be plaster or pre-cast fiberglass.
 
Coffered: A boxed wood ceiling composed of twenty-four in squares surrounded by wood beams. Popular in dining rooms and libraries. Common period designs include Arts and Crafts, Georgian and Victorian. Common materials cherry, oak and mahogany.
 
Cathedral Ceiling: A blend of a double-angled vault with exposed beams.
 
Dropped Ceiling. The common application for dropping a ceiling below the structure is to cover heating and plumbing supply lines. Also used in renovating spaces where the original ceiling height is not visually pleasing or energy efficient.
 
Enjoy more Bricks & Sticks by Mark Nash. Topics include Ceiling options, Interior Ligting and Staircases.

Bricks & Sticks:Interior Lighting
By Mark Nash
 
Lighting can make or break a home or a room. Designers use lighting to add drama to a space, provide for work surfaces, highlight style features or combine lighting with fixtures such as a chandelier to make a glimmering statement. Understanding how to use lighting effectively can increase the curb appeal, resale value and the marketability of a home.
 
Lighting types. General lighting provides illumination for safety and security purposes. Task lighting is used for cooking, reading, hobbies where shadows are eliminated. Accent lighting is used to focus attention on architectural features or a favorite painting or other object. Decorative lighting is used in table lamps, wall sconces or pendants hanging over a kitchen island.
 
Lighting uses. Wall washing can create a back drop effect by pointing a wide beam of light at a wall. Wall grazing is good for popping textured wall surfaces like natural fabrics, stone, brick or etched concrete. Down is one of the most common uses of lighting, where the light is originating from a hanging fixture or track. Uplighting can add drama to indoor plants or dark corners by placing a free-standing light can.
 
Lighting controls. Switches are the most common, but they can't control the amount of light. Dimmers can allow the light level to be raised or lowered and are offered in simple or digital models.
 
Lighting fixtures. Ceiling fixtures feature glass or plastic diffusers, which can be flush mounted or hang from the ceiling. Ceiling fans can offer the combination of ventilation and lighting. Strip lights are used as under-cabinet lighting in kitchens, over vanities in bathrooms and on stairways inside and out. Recessed lighting are decorative flush-with-ceiling cans that offer down, accent or wall washing. Scones can down light or up light walls and stairwells.
 
Lighting tip. Lighter wall colors reflect more light, darker paints and finishes absorb up to four times more light and are not as energy efficient.
 

Tips to ensure you get the right home improvement contractor.
By Mark Nash
 
It's hard to find good help and especially if your planning to market your home or you have just purchased one that needs some updating. Complaints about home improvement contractors rank high on consumer agency lists. Mark Nash author of 1001 Tips for Buying and Selling a Home offers do's and don't for home buyers and sellers when planning to hire an outside contractor to repair or renovate their home.
 
Do's
 
-Verify their insurance. Ask to see copies of liability insurance and amounts before signing a contract.
 
-Ask for references. Request a list of references from past and current clients. Call and discuss with them the pluses and minus' of the contractor. Take the time to visit homes where work was done, check for timeliness and attention to detail on work sites.
 
-Request information on suppliers and subcontractors. Contractors are only as good as their support system. Vendors and subcontractors can share insight into the business practices of your potential contractor.
 
-Check with local Better Business Bureaus and with local building and planning officials. Most likely you'll need building permits and certificates of occupancy from the local office that regulates renovation and building. These officials should be familiar with you  contractor and their work.
 
-Get at least 3 estimates. You will be surprised at how different the costs can be for the same work. Have plans and specifications in writing to deliver to contractors who bid on work. A flat fee for a project is more cost effective than time and materials. Detail materials, paint colors by brand, appliance make and model and warranties.
 
-Draft a complete contract. Make sure it lays out who is doing what, when it should be done by and what happens if it is not done to your  satisfaction. Include payment schedules and how changes to plans will affect costs and the contract. Options should be listed separate from the main contract.
 
-Address refusal to complete work. It's not likely that your contractor will refuse to complete work or abandon the project, but it pays to include a course of action if these situations arise in any contract.
 
-On occasion provide food treats and beverages. On hot and humid summer days or below freezing winter ones, make the effort to provide chilled bottled water, steaming coffee and a quick pick-me-up to contractors.
 
-Be appreciative verbally. After a rough or long day at your home, I have found it always pays to let contractors know that you appreciate their extra efforts. Staying late to complete the plumbing to get a toilet running or leaving the job site broom clean without asking is worth a hearty thank-you.
 
 
Dont's
 
-Ignore making scheduled payments on time.  A sure bet to get slow follow-through from contractors. If the contractor is performing as stated in the contract, so should you.
 
-Forget patience. Delays by cabinet or door manufactures can be out of the contractors control. Don't be afraid to double-check though if they have been ordered to meet job lead times.
 
-Make the contractor guess what you want. Start a clip file before you have a contractor over to review job. Pick up some home magazines and tear out colors, finishes, appliances and overall looks for a room that you like. Develop a list of dislikes, anything helps to eliminate and communicate your thoughts.
 
-Be cheap. Good work costs sometimes comes at a higher price. And buyers know chintzy materials and craftsmanship. Don't nickel and dime your contractor, and pay for all change orders you request.
 
-Be unavailable for contractor questions. There are always a couple of items that sneak past the drawings and specifications or surprises that you run into in an older home. Make al your contact information to your contractor so if they need to reach you to make a decision that if you don't could hold the job up.
 
-Forget that we don't live in a perfect world. It's difficult to have strangers in our homes and even more so when the inconvenience of a remodeling job interrupts our personal refuge. Contractors like to complete work in a timely manner, but they don't control all the remodeling moons to align them perfectly on every project.
 

Mark Nash, is a residential real estate author, broker, columnist and writer based in Chicago. His fourth book 1001 Tips for Buying and Selling a Home received eighteen five star reviews on Amazon.com. His latest book; Real Estate A-Z for Buying & Selling a Home will be published in December 2006. Mark publishes a free monthly ezine for real estate professionals. Agent to Agent features ten articles that offer free reprints for agents, home buyers and sellers through EzineArticles.com . Real estate news and book reviews, Celebrity Homestyles, Home selling and buying tips and advice, Joke-of-the-Month, Help this Agent, and agent marketing tips. Over 5000 subscribers in the U.S. & Canada. Subscribe at: http://www.1001realestatetips.com/agenttoagentezine/subscribe.html


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